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When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.